Back in Marseille: Part II

7 min. read

(image courtesy of Freepik)

(Part I)

The next morning, I have the opportunity to meet more of the advocates who have arrived intermittently during the weekend. I expect that many of them would be over-earnest middle class white kids, eager to prove their DEI credentials. To my pleasant surprise, the vast majority of advocates are of African, Middle Eastern or South Asian descent. All of us are migrants in the EU context. My heart swells with pride and tenderness to see my African brothers-in-activism looking especially dapper.

By contrast, most of the coordination team are Caucasian. During the plenary, I ask if there's a strategy to ensure that the baton is handed over to those who better represent the main beneficiaries of the Equality Pact. The project will otherwise be at risk of reproducing exploitative colonial practices, where brown folk do the heavy lifting and white people take the credit. On hearing my question, Suki makes an approving gesture, as does another moderator, Kellie, originally from Lebanon.

Advocates share stories of fleeing horrific circumstances, such as being a child soldier, only to be criminalised and imprisoned at European borders. One advocate was a successful reporter turned enemy of the state, after their country was plunged into war. There are heartbreaking stories of forced exile, individuals separated from loved ones for years that run into decades. They survive it all, navigating hostile bureaucracy in their adopted homes to set up CSO’s successfully campaigning on behalf of other racialised migrants. Moussa Bankare for instance (below), runs a boutique in Greece, alongside being a respected activist. I feel immensely humbled to share a platform with these advocates. My imposter syndrome kicks in. As challenging as my own migrant experience has been at times, it doesn’t compare. Within an unjust and stratified migration system, having a British passport has afforded me advantages others are cruelly denied. As I often say, only half-joking, it’s (borrowed) white privilege in document form.

Over the course of the first day of discussions and sharing ideas, the exchanges become more heated. From the outset, I politely object to being obligated to state my preferred pronoun whilst introducing myself. I am relieved when Rolando, a LGBTQ+ activist himself, agrees.

 

I disagree with another advocate, Alex, on the use of the term ‘sex work’, at least without first acknowledging that it's a contested issue. Alex and Rolando clash with Pippa, another delegate of mixed Southern-African heritage. She uses ‘black’ in the political sense to refer to anybody racialised as non-white. Alex and Rolando take issue with this definition. These two in turn have an even more emotive exchange over Europe’s reputation as a so-called upholder of Human Rights. There are tears and walk-outs. Other masculine voices, seasoned in negotiating with EU policy makers, try to dominate the sessions. There are myriad philosophical and ideological divergences… For certain, it’s intense but there’s also something sincere and therapeutic about it. We have spoken without filters and, one would hope, cleared the air.

We disperse again to decompress before dinner. Mélanie selects an excellent Palestinian restaurant near heart of Marseille for the evening meal; great ambiance, sumptuous food and good customer service. Most of the advocates and coordinating team are present. The tension of the day has all but disappeared. Alex and Rolando are back on good terms. Meanwhile, Mélanie and I listen enrapt as Margot recounts harrowing stories of generational trauma and her family’s protracted experience with a merciless Belgian immigration system.

I expect the second and last full day of consultation to be simpler. It’s not. Not at the start, anyway. Alex’ insistence on monopolising the space and being needlessly contrarian jars even more. I’m left rattled after an intense conversation with a colleague and my laptop charger has decided to give up the ghost.

 I also come to the realisation that the work on the Pact hasn’t taken the form I expected. Or rather, my expectations were unrealistic. The sessions are fruitful and by the end, we have the core of what the Pact will eventually become. I just overestimate how much can be achieved in a couple of days.

We spend a good deal of time strategising for the upcoming elections. Given the tight timeframe, in a way, this feels even more productive.

That evening, Pippa and I engage in a frank and extensive discussion about life as racialised women in mainland Europe, having the Christian faith in common and the minefield of relationships, platonic and otherwise.  We’re back at the Palestinian restaurant that evening for dinner. En route, Shaista regales me with more humour-rich stories of her erstwhile life as a political insider. She has an enviable knack for British regional accents.

La Palestine restaurant, Marseille

After dinner, a few of us pass by a food court-cum-Karaoke bar. It's a last hurrah before we have to catch our respective modes of transport back to our corners of Europe.  We haggle over what song to sing, finally settling on Madonna’s late 80s hit, Like a Prayer. It is warmly received, although the MC ushers us off stage when he's had enough (it's a long track).  Later that evening, my rendition of Tina’s What’s Love Got to Do with It? will bring the house down.

We return to the hotel in triumphant mood. We say fond farewells to those catching early flights or trains. Whatever the outcome of the Pact, some amazing connections have been made. 

In the morning, I’ll bump into Shaista, Suki and a few of the African brothers before departing. As we gather in front of St. Charles train station, Fidelis and I are baptised in beer, standing too close to a few drunks in the midst of an altercation.

I have a decent chunk of time before my mid-afternoon train. I'll participate in the tail end of Marseille's May Day protests, part of which is disrupted by yet another errant addict.

Before then, I’ll join Margot in the hotel restaurant for breakfast ahead of check-out. Both based in Brussels, we’ll be returning on the same train.

You know, I’m not sure whether to be sad or pleased that it’s all over. Margot observes It’s been quite a mix. 

You can say that again.

(image courtesy of 123RTF)

On the train back to Brussels, I'm rudely awoken from semi-slumber by a Customs officer. I feel something between a poke and a shove on my shoulder. Seeing my shock and consternation, he affects a faux-friendliness that is more sinister than reassuring. It doesn't help that he looks like he stepped out of a Third Reich-era poster. There appears to be no rhyme or reason for selecting me. My only 'offence' appears to be sleeping whilst black. Having chosen me at random, he interrogates me about the trip, asks intrusive questions about my luggage and insists on searching my handbag. The officer riffles inexplicably through my wallet. Probably suspects me of credit card fraud. He's especially concerned that I have two (non-smart) mobiles. Maybe he'd like to add 'drug dealer' to my imaginary wrap sheet. To expedite the process, I offer to show my British passport and my Belgian ID. (Privilege in document form, remember?). He initially pays no mind. In the meantime, his colleague half-heartedly interrogates the pale-skinned passenger next to me, perhaps to make things look more balanced.

When Officer Blondie eventually checks my ID, seeing everything is in order he has no choice but to shuffle off. Margot discreetly phones me afterwards. Our seats are parallel but her view has been obscured by the officer and his colleague. 

I feel a mix of irritation and pity. The officer is likely convinced that he's simply carrying out his duty without partiality; one of the 'good guys'. Over the coming days, my anger will increase at the thought of the incident. Should I have been more assertive? Would I have had the presence of mind? Would it have been worth it, knowing the French state's proclivity for violence?

Once safely back at Brussels-Midi, Margot is collected by her husband with their adorable tot in tow. Just before we part ways, we'll reflect on the bitter irony of that unpleasant interaction with Customs, in light of what took us to Marseille in the first place.

Back in Marseille: Part I

7 min. read

Gare St. Charles, Marseille (courtesy of Marseille Tourisme) 

My spring becomes more intensely busy, for the right reasons, when I’m headhunted for a pro-bono advocacy role in early April. I’m approached on LinkedIn by Mélanie, a project coordinator from human rights organisation, Avocats sans Frontières or Lawyers without Borders (ASF). Mélanie finds me via my previous volunteering with a group focused on EU migration policy; specifically concerning the legal protection of undocumented migrants.

Mélanie and I set up a call, where she effectively gives a presentation about the EU-funded project. If my application is successful (since I still need to apply for formality’s sake), I will be amongst a group of activists drawn from across Europe, invited to finetune the draft of a campaign document ahead of the European elections in June. The focus of the Equality Pact, as it is known, would be to address discriminatory law and practice, particularly around migration and structural racism. Sounds worthy, no? The project bears the handy acronym, TACKLE and involves a consortium of civil society organisations.

Mélanie informs me that, if recruited, an all-expenses paid trip to Marseille awaits at the end of April. Prospective advocates will gather in the southern French city for a few days of training, team-building and to start work on the Pact. I clear my diary, just in case.

Beady-eyed readers might recall my mixed feelings about Marseille, following my first experience visiting almost six years ago. I like the idea of being in sunnier climes and close to water but wary of personal safety. At least this time I would be in a group.

Fortunately, my application is successful. It’s a frantic rush to make sure everything is in order before I leave for Provence.

With no direct trains to Marseille on the date of travel, the ASF team books a connecting train in Paris. I will be travelling most of the day. I arrive at Gare de Lyon in plenty of time for the onward journey. Alas, I’m distracted by an older Togolese gentleman selling Afrodescendant-focused books. By the time I realise, it’s too late to board. Thank God, I’m able to take the next train, free of charge. I notice whilst boarding that I’ve been upgraded to first class without asking (not that I would, given my egalitarian values).

At the hour that I arrive at my hotel, there’s only time to shower and prepare for bed. I’ve stayed in better Accor establishments but it’s clean (enough), reassuringly close to St. Charles train station and has a great breakfast spread. Plus, if I ignore the car park immediately below, there's a pleasing view of the distant hills from my window.

The following day, myself and the few other advocates who have already arrived are expected to participate in a workshop. It's part of a weekend-long event organised by lead TACKLE coordinators, the European Common Space for Alternatives- or - ECSA (I know, I know, a lot of acronyms to keep up with).

I finally meet organisers offline with whom I’ve only had remote contact such as Suki, a Marseille-based Brit of South Asian origin. There’s also Giacomo, one of the founders of ECSA; a tall, wire-thin man with a shock of thick greying hair and cornflower blue eyes. He explains how he and his family were hounded out of the UK by the right-wing media for his work on migration rights. (It’s only at the end of the trip, that I’ll discover that one of his colleagues is also his significant other).

I have more of opportunities to learn of Mélanie’s peripatetic upbringing, her career trajectory and why her own experience of being in an interracial marriage has informed her work on migration rights.

La Friche de la Belle de Mai (c) Caroline Dutrey

The project is only a few months' old. The general organisation therefore has a ‘flying by the seat of our trousers’ feel. It’s all very lastminute.com.

ECSA decides to hold the workshop outside. As our activity gets underway, the weather is starting to cool and the wind is fierce. Not the typical Mediterranean climate we anticipated. Apart from competing with the chill and howling wind, there are a number of technical difficulties with which to contend.

Mishaps notwithstanding, the workshop is warmly received. I have the chance to meet other advocates like Margot, who relocated from Rwanda to Belgium as a toddler to escape the genocide 30 years ago. Rolando is a linguistic genius, originally from Chile and now based in France. Despite only having lived in the UK as a child for a couple of years and settling in the French capital a mere few years ago, he speaks excellent English and French with a close to native accent. Rolando grew up in a Right-wing family, going as far as to do a stint in the marines before becoming an activist in the LGBTQ+ movement. He fights back tears as he describes the homophobic violence he’s experienced in his adopted home. Rolando and I become fast conference friends. We have thought-provoking discussions about everything from Belief and spirituality to debates around pronoun etiquette and wearing an hijab. Whilst his views might have drifted left, it's a fool's game to assume he’ll hold certain positions just because of his sexual orientation and/or migration status. 

I’m also introduced to journalist, comedienne, former Labour councillor, veteran activist and all round powerhouse, Shaista Aziz. She was the first local Labour party official to resign over Keir Starmer’s appalling stance on Israel’s genocidal campaign in Gaza. Within a few minutes of chatting, I discover that she and another speaker are also mutual friends of one Prof. Danny Dorling.

Over the next few days, Shaista will take a no-nonsense yet affirming approach to sisterly solidarity. If she sniffs any self-doubt on my part, she assures me that I have earned my place in the room. 

Other workshop speakers include Ivorian activist, Solange Koné as well as interventions from myself, Margot, Rolando and his friend and fellow advocate, Amel; a painfully shy refugee from Iraq. 

I am glad to see that one of my new-ish Brussels-based friends, Brittany, has made it to the workshop. A fellow British passport holder and member of Belgium’s Worker Party (PTB), we met whilst volunteering at 2023’s Manifiesta festival . Over the course of the weekend, I’ll bump into other comrades from PTB.

Arriving the previous day, Brittany says our session is the best she’s attended so far of the ECSA programme. That helps to dispel any FOMO about the events I couldn't make.

In the evening, several of us reconnect for international-flavoured musical entertainment and a delicious two-course meal, courtesy of ECSA itself, at a converted factory. Rolando’s attempts to flirt with one of the waiters will eventually be thwarted when he turns out to be straight. 

On the following day, a Sunday, the main plan is to rest ahead of a full two day programme. A few of us nevertheless decide to participate in a pro-Palestine demo taking place mid-afternoon. We’re joined by newly-arrived delegate, Fidelis, a Nigerian based in Italy.

The weather is more propitious for the march than the morning rain would suggest. If the number of demonstrators is far less than I’m used to in London or even Brussels, Suki explains it’s because the protests are being held every Sunday afternoon. Participation varies from week to week. I’m surprised that Marseille’s local authorities permit the city centre to be shut down on a regular basis. They have no choice, says Shaista. It's Marseille. There’d be uprisings. Suki concurs.

Not for the only time, Shaista and I have a heated discussion about the current state of the British Labour party. She brings with her much insider knowledge, naturally.

As we approach the main destination of the City Hall near the Old Port, the protest is suddenly interrupted by fire engines. The crowd reluctantly parts, like the waves for Moses at the Red Sea. The other firefighters circumnavigate the demonstration altogether.

Just as we’re arriving at the Old Port, where we’ll encounter more comrades, we see billows of smoke emanating from one of the multi-storey buildings. Not a false alarm, then. Those leading the march point to the emergency as a sobering reminder of what is a daily reality for Gazans, except on a far greater magnitude.

I feel honoured to be partaking in yet another Palestinian solidarity demo in a fresh context. More widely, the city’s support for Gaza is immediately apparent; from graffiti to fly posters.

After the protest, we disperse to our corners in anticipation of an intense few days.

Dinner is some cheap-ish take-away in my room. I’m relieved not to fall ill with food poisoning, after ordering from an establishment whose hygiene practices leave room for doubt. By the time I start changing my mind, I’ve already placed my order. I politely ask the hotel staff to blast my food in the microwave en route to my room.

Soundtrack: Studies in a Dying Love by Aladean Kheroufi

(Part II)

Red, White, Black and Green

 8-9 min. read

(c) Farahgraphicz

I could not reflect on the past month without acknowledging the events of 7 October in Israel and the ensuing onslaught in Gaza. Much of my time, before, during and after my most recent UK trip has been consumed by it. 

The attacks by Hamas on Israeli civilians come shortly after a national day of action in Belgium to protest the government’s plans to restrict the very right to demonstrate. 

My comrades at Intal and others regroup again when the Israeli state responds to Hamas’ brutality with predictably gruesome and disproportionate reprisals. 

The night of Hamas’ assault, I sleep fitfully, terrified of Israel's retribution that is sure to come. The following morning at church, I open up briefly when asked how I'm doing by Roy, another regular. I’m hesitant to share. Whatever my church’s official position - assuming there is one - it is not rabidly Zionist. Still, there are members who are. Roy isn’t, even if he’s less enthused about Palestinian liberation than I’d hope. He advises me to be attentive to self-care. 

You can’t take on all the world's burdens, he admonishes, That’s God’s job. You’ll be far less useful if you’re burned out. 

True that.

What many of us fear comes to pass. As I write, the IDF’s offensive has seen the slaughter of over 11,000 Gazan civilians (some believing this to be a serious underestimate), roughly half of whom are children. I weep with others across the world when I hear or think of the horror taking place on the ground; not just in Gaza but throughout the Palestinian territories. Shortly after I put virtual pen to paper for this article, I learn of the arrest of well-known Palestinian activist, Ahed Tamimi under an apparent pretext; no doubt an act of provocation by the Israeli state. At the ripe-old age of 22, she's already spent significant periods of time in custody. That same week, IDF militia shoot dead a 13 year-old in the West Bank, on the way to hang out with his friends.

I channel my terror into prayers and making my voice heard where possible, mainly through collective action on both sides of the Channel. In Belgium I attend any pro-Palestine and ceasefire demonstration event for which I'm available. Many involve Intal, the peace-building, anti-imperialist initiative which I joined earlier this year.  They have long been active in campaigning and raising awareness around the Palestinian cause. I'm informed at a team meeting that the organisation has gained hundreds of new members in the weeks since the crisis spiralled.

I have the privilege of being part of the reportedly half a million who march through central London in late October. I become tearful at the display of solidarity amongst this reassuringly diverse crowd. I also well up at the thought of freedom for Palestinians, no matter how remote it appears at the moment. From the River to the Sea...- a chant so maligned and misrepresented by Zionists - moves me every time.

The following weekend, not long after I return to Belgium, my mother participates in one of many demonstrations at the local level throughout the UK. She has a similar emotional reaction. She's also touched enough to attend the enormous rally taking place in London on Armistice day. Despite the (now sacked) UK Home Secretary Suella Braverman's attempts to incite social unrest, she's defied by up to 800,000 -according to some estimates - mostly peaceful participants.

I seriously reflect on which companies to add to my BDS list. I don't patronise Starbucks in any case, and I can't remember when I last purchased anything from McDonalds. I'm more partial to Domino's Pizza and Burger King but these are rare treats and easily suspended. Boycotting French supermarket chain, Carrefour will be tougher. Alas, my knowledge of HP’s implication in the regime comes just after replacing my old laptop with one of their products.

I learn of celebrities I once respected writing inane letters to President Biden, effectively congratulating him for aiding and abetting Israel’s murderous campaign. I am baffled by African-Americans such as Chris Rock, Tyler Perry and Jordan Peele’s reaction. It’s one thing for a subset of black Christians who have swallowed vile Zionist indoctrination whole in the name of religion (that could explain Perry's stance). It’s another for those who don’t have that excuse. 

I am convinced more than ever that the modern Israeli state is just another iteration of white supremacist colonial ambition. The stratification of Israeli Jews along ethnic lines, with European Jews at the top of the food chain, is evidence of that. The Zionists have Judaised this variation of supremacy but it's not a specifically Jewish phenomenon. Anybody who chants Black Lives Matter and cannot stand up for the lives of Palestinians, is not serious about combatting racism. The hashtag trend-chasers are thus exposed. Those who would devalue Palestinian lives will likely do the same to Black lives behind closed doors. It’s of no benefit for once colonised people to support any imperial project. Our struggles are intertwined and always have been. But elites will usually close ranks, regardless of their ethnicity. I should probably add the oeuvre of a few of these celebrities to my boycott list, at least until they see some sense.

Earlier in the crisis, I encourage my mother to write to her local MP. No longer based in the UK, I don't have the same access to its parliamentary representatives. The MP's response is at times mealy-mouthed and overall lacking in moral courage. She gives a completely a-historical account of events, ignoring the 1948 Nakba and laying all the blame at Hamas' feet. As if they exist in a vacuum. As if successive Israeli administrations -including Netanyahu's- had not funded Hamas as part of a divide and rule tactic to split Palestinian political support. As if nothing preceded 7 October 2023.

 

 Yet for every spineless and morally derelict elected official, playing politics with people's lives, fomenting hatred or calling for mere ‘humanitarian pauses*’, there's an Ilhan Omar delivering an impassioned speech in favour of true humanitarianism, whether or not it 'benefits' her career. Or her courageous Palestinian-American colleague, Rashida Tlaib being censured for requesting that US Congress to do the humane thing. Or workers showing more integrity than their political representatives, refusing to handle Israeli goods and demanding a ceasefire. 

* (This nonsensical notion of an humanitarian pause is like interrupting a man pummelling another, so that the victim can grab some lunch, take a shower and put on a few plasters, only to let the perpetrator continue to beat them to death after the break)

For every celebrity motivated by self-interest, there are others insisting on an end to Israel’s collective punishment; seasoned activists who defy their privileged class to speak out against injustice, whether it's popular with their peers or not. I'm relieved to come across a video by a musical hero of mine condemning Western leaders' bellicosity.

For every Archbishop of Canterbury giving carte blanche to Israel, there’s a Pope Francis calling for a ceasefire. And of course, there are the millions across the world marching in solidarity with Palestine, many of them Jewish. I'm proud to count Jewish comrades, resisting racism in all its forms, amongst my friends. Within Israel and beyond, they do not abide by their ethnicity being hijacked for cynical colonial ends. I look on in admiration as the likes of Barnaby Raine and James Schneider make a potent and eloquent case for solidarity with the Palestinians, at the risk of being labelled self-hating Jews by unhinged critics. High profile Jewish voices speaking out against the possible genocide such as Judith Butler and Gabor Maté , are essential to discredit the mainstream narrative that conflates their ethnicity with the state of Israel. (It's telling however, that these come from the more rarefied world of academia and public thinkers, whereas certain Jewish entertainers prove themselves less 'progressive' than they claim.)

I once again tap into the knowledge and experience of Palestinian Christians. My faith-based activism is re-invigorated as I learn about the Palestinian take on Liberation Theology. At the same time, I force myself to listen to views with which I might not entirely agree, within reason.

I become increasingly disillusioned with the capital-C Church. Whilst speaking to a friend in London, not especially well-versed in the history of Palestine-Israel, he expresses disbelief at the deafening omerta from Christians, both at his church and more widely. I share his bewilderment. 

It's not so much a crisis of faith but a crisis of belonging. Although my family were not activists, I grew up in a household that was sympathetic to the Palestinian cause. Whilst that instinct has been challenged, particularly when surrounded by Christian Zionists as an undergrad, it's so ingrained in me that I could never abandon it wholly.  Maybe that's given me a head start and I need to be more patient with those slow to catch-up. But still...

On one end, I am angered by the Church’s virulent strain of Zionism (especially amongst my evangelical/charismatic tribe) and on the other by the cowardly ‘it’s complicated’ fence-sitting. The latter is worse in some ways. If the history of the region is complex, the right for Palestinians not to be oppressed and dehumanised isn't hard to grasp. The aforementioned MP for my mother's constituency is supposedly a Christian. However, she seems more preoccupied with upholding her party leader's unjustifiable position than doing the honourable thing.

Of all the folk I bump into at the rallies or demos, I count none of my immediate or wider church family amongst them. 

Of course, there are exceptions. I have Christian family members attending protests in their corners of the world. My sister is blessed enough to attend a pro-Palestine church in Japan, led by a Jewish-Christian female pastor. Thank God for somebody like Cornel West, willing to stand up and be counted as he has done consistently over this issue, even to his detriment. This kind of solidarity should be commonplace amongst the Body of Christ but is sadly- shamefully – rare.

I feel on the edges of my own church community in Belgium. Apart from a select few events, I avoid extra-curricular activities. I make it to a surprise birthday party for one of the senior pastors, safe in the knowledge that at such a celebration guests will want to avoid controversial themes.

 

I’m keeping a distance from prayer meetings until further notice, for fear of being dysregulated by some insensitive comment about Palestine. Or flat out losing it with anyone who tries to warp scripture to justify the massacre of fellow image bearers of God. 

The hypocrisy is stifling. 

Where is the outrage? Where is the lament for Palestinian sisters and brothers whose places of worship and very lives are being destroyed and have been for decades? What kind of Zionist cognitive dissonance conveniently ignores scripture's admonition for any retribution to be proportionate or to show compassion to the 'stranger in the land'? How can one so callously neglect what Christ declared to be one of the two greatest commandments; to love your neighbour as yourself? Any theology that leads you to devalue the humanity of another is not worthy of the name. It's heresy, and should be ditched accordingly.

I resist the arrogant, chronocentric framing of being on the 'right' or ‘wrong side of History’. This is simply a case of living out the love, truth, mercy and compassion we find embodied in our Lord and Saviour. It can't be a coincidence that Jesus speaks of Justice before He mentions Peace in the Sermon on the Mount. The former is a sina qua non of the latter, as we often hear.

That’s why I consider it providential – an instance of Divine Mercy – that I happen to meet a Christian at the October demonstration in London. Of all the 500,000 in attendance I could have stood beside, I am next to Miranda; an older Christian woman, member of the Labour Party (still, miraculously) and a fellow one-time supporter of Corbyn during his years as the party's leader. We remain in touch long after I return to Belgium. I suppose we’re both pleasantly surprised, not to mention grateful, to have found each other. God knows, I need the boost.

Ready or Not...Part II

 6 min. read

Part I

A day after catching R&B singer/songwriter Amber Mark live at Botanique, I spend a windy Sunday in Ostend, at the annual Manifiesta political festival. It's the first since the onset of the pandemic and therefore my first occasion to attend. As is almost uniformly the case with this sort of event, there are numerous great things going on at the same time. If only I could clone myself. I go to sessions about successful union organising at Starbucks in the US and Ibis Hotel in France’s capital, both led by Afrodescendant women. I rub shoulders with gifted young socialist economist from the UK, Grace Blakeley and the extended family of celebrated Palestinian activist, Ahed Tamimi. Former UK Labour Party leader, Jeremy Corbyn is also supposed to be a guest of honour. Alas, he pulls out. It's the eve of the late Queen Elizabeth II's funeral. A fellow socialist-republican, JC decides it's better to lay low lest his presence at Manifiesta be wilfully misconstrued by the cynical British press. 

I come across various comrades and those I wouldn’t consider amongst them, such as my old nemesis, Rob.

Before hopping on the coach for the traffic-heavy ride back to Brussels, I enjoy an ecstatic set by the dynamic Ivorian musical outfit, Magic System.

A few days later there’s further intellectual and cultural invigoration at the Afro-European conference held in VUB university, Etterbeek. It is another first for me. As suspected, I bump into representatives from the anti-racist organisation that interviewed me a few weeks prior. It’s initially a little awkward but there’s no beef. 

It’s an intense three days. The theme this year is intersectionality, with the aim of understanding its complexities beyond just being a buzzword. 

Like Manifiesta, I’m torn between myriad presentations and discussions that overlap. I attend multilingual sessions covering topics such as Black Feminisms, the role of race in healthcare in Europe, racialisation in policymaking and knowledge construction by Afro-Brazilian women filmmakers. 

Other highlights include all three keynote speeches. On Day One the honour goes to the first Afrodescendant female professor in the UK, Olivette Otele. The following day it's the turn of fellow academic, the provocative Kehinde Andrews and to close, the fearlessly candid activist, Mireille-Tsheusi Robert. 

There's also a chance to visit the infamous Africa Museum in Tervuren. The museum has rightly come under fire in the past for completely effacing Belgium’s sanguineous track record in its former colonies, notably Congo. Whilst I’ve been to the Museum’s sprawling grounds many times, I wouldn’t have ventured inside unless it were for a more historically honest guided visit. This is my opportunity. 

We divide into two groups. Most are keen to follow the Belgo-Congolese guide, Frédéric (who, I’m later told, gives an unfiltered tour of the premises). The rest of us, perhaps out of sympathy, join the Flemish guide, Marieke, who is beginning to feel left out. She does her best to be culturally sensitive and acknowledges the remaining controversies but naturally, she wouldn't bring the same perspective as Frédéric. 

On the way back from the Museum by tram, our group analyses the visit; both its strengths and oversights. One African-American participant raises the salient point that without the guide or foreknowledge of Belgium’s colonial past, the museum's coverage of this historical violence remains muted.

After the Conference closing ceremony, a posse of us heads to Flagey for drinks and food. I’m exhausted but sad it’s all over. I’ve made several more new acquaintances, spread throughout Continental Europe and the UK.

The day after, I make my way to a new Jam at the Jazz Station bar in St. Josse. I’ve passed the venue many times, my curiosity yet to be satiated. I am accompanied by a couple of very recent acquaintances, Clothilde and Agnès. We meet for the first time a few weeks earlier, sitting in on a rehearsal for a Gospel choir that we're all interested in joining. Clothilde and Agnès are such fast friends, I assume they’re already well-acquainted. Once I let down my guard, we’re all chatting away easily about harmonies and previous singing experience.

The ladies follow through on their promise to stay in touch and reconnect for musical excursions, hence my proposal to head to Jazz Station.

I’ve also invited for the ride another kindred spirit in music, Jens. It’s a been a while since we hung out. I am a bit paranoid he’s avoiding me. On the contrary. He’s just been busy. Jens accepts my last minute invitation with alacrity.

The Jazz Station event comes recommended by a flirty French musician I meet at an open mic night in Laiterie café, where I’ve performed a few weeks prior. 

Alas, the set-up at the Jazz Station is more stereotypically uptight than the easygoing Laiterie gang. We still have a great time, albeit Agnès finds the house band too esoteric. I see her point.

The event does seem more welcoming of singers compared to others I’ve attended. I give it a go. The feedback is positive. I’m relieved to have gone through it, even if I’m not wholly satisfied with my performance.

Jazz Station (c) Visit Brussels

The best part of the evening is seeing my guests all get along, as well as meeting other musically-inclined folk. Like the producer, Bémol and his wife, Alessa. The couple have only just moved to Brussels after several years spent in Southern Europe and North Africa. Agnès mentions that Bémol is looking for vocalists to provide BGVs on a forthcoming project. Whilst open to the idea, privately I maintain a healthy scepticism about its likelihood. On verra.

By the end of the night, numbers have been exchanged, as well as information on similar events.

Before Jens drops us off home in his pristine, upmarket car, multi-instrumentalist Clothilde avails herself of the chance to perform the improvised piano piece that she was denied before. (Only Jazz standards can be performed during the jam). She’s more accomplished than I assumed. 

Clothilde radiates a childlike exuberance; one of those rare beings yet untainted by the world. It moves me to tears. Never change, I tell her.