A [Wander]lust for Life

The Streets of Selestat, Alsace

I figure I might as well take advantage of Strasbourg’s strategic location. Whilst I’m here. It’s often called the Capital of Europe, sandwiched between the rest of France, Germany, Switzerland and Luxembourg. There’s also the vast region of Alsace on my doorstep to discover.

Having acquainted myself with the charms of Colmar over the Christmas period, the even closer Selestat is next on my list. It’s barely a town. More like a sizeable village. I avoid doing these daytime excursions on the weekend for obvious reasons. However, I appear to have chosen an especially uneventful Monday to become familiarised with Strasbourg’s neighbour. I comment to a local cafe proprietor on how deserted it is. She agrees. It’s never very busy but even then...today is particularly slow.

One of Selestat’s main claims to fame, the Humanist library, is closed for renovation. I walk around the ghostly quiet streets. Thanks to the quaint (as always) layout and the surrounding Vosges mountains, there’s enough pretty scenery to hold my attention. I’m tickled by the sight of more toy-town style houses from centuries passed. I have overestimated how long it would take to 'discover' Selestat. I have a lot of time to kill before my return train. As is my custom, I while away some of the afternoon in orthodox church buildings. Heavenly voices beckon me into St George’s, singing multi-part harmony cantons, acappella . Unable to locate from whence this celestial chorus emanates, I like to believe they are practising in the vestry. Alas, it’s a mere recording. The serene atmosphere is inviting, nonetheless. I find a corner to focus my overly-occupied mind. Suddenly, a burst of sunlight streams through a parallel stain glass window. I’m caught in its path. After an afternoon of almost solidly grey skies, it’s the first let-up.

My first trip to Luxembourg isn’t so propitious on the weather front. I’d have thought an early Spring foray would ensure at least a couple of days of sunlight. But much of Europe is still recovering from the so-called Beast from the East. Having rushed to the station with 10 minutes to spare before departure, I’m greeted with the news of a 40 minute delay to my journey. Adverse weather of course. I text my AirBnb hostess. I’ve rented a room in the suburbs, half an hour from Luxembourg City. She warns me of the slippery conditions. Thank God, I had the presence of mind to pack my wellies.

Arsenal Sainte-Barbe, Selestat

The non-committal metallic sky brings with it a malaise. I’ve booked a long weekend to see a country that could probably be visited in a day. When my supervisor, Sophie asks my weekend plans and I mention Lux she replies, with her ever-cheerful diplomacy. Cool. It’s small…

My unofficial French tutor, Bernard is visibly less enthusiastic. He falls silent at the mention of Luxembourg, pulling a face before he can stop himself. C'est petit... I venture; almost apologetic.

Oui, c'est ca, he replies in his austere baritone, with a firm nod.

Well, I’m here now. Cold weather or not. It’s not all bad. In the light of day, from the train window, the Luxembourgeois landscape looks like it’s covered in frosted icing. That will have all but vanished by the next day, when arctic-lite temperatures give way to milder climes.

A friend back in London recommends I check out the cliffs (and the night life but it’s not going to happen when it's Baltic outside). I suppose he means the precipices on which much of the main City is built. The bocks are stunning, in a morbid sort of way. Breathtaking even, quite literally. My mild vertigo kicks in at the sight of the sheer drop, particularly where the barriers are (to my mind) not high enough to protect my precious, soft body from the rocky surfaces below. The hazardous weather conditions make me more nervous still. I notice other tourists descending the steep steps built into the rock faces or walking across exposed bridges. It gives me the shivers.

I find tranquillity once again, in sacred spaces; this time in the capacious crypt of the Notre Dame Cathedral. It's enchanting, in a surprisingly modern way. The unsettlingly aged depiction of Christ on a stained glass window is out of place, however.

A View from the Bridge: Overlooking the Luxembourg bocks ,
one snowy weekend

I cover much of what I wanted to see within a few hours. I catch my train back to Rodange with less than two minutes to spare. It’s early evening when I arrive back at the AirBnb. My ever-smiling Greek host Delphina will soon retire, alongside her beautiful young son Jonas.

I’m a little undecided about the rest of my itinerary for the next couple of days. I could go to neighbouring village Echternach but being a Sunday, the trains are so infrequent. I’m hoping to make it back to Luxembourg that afternoon to see a film. In the end, I dilly-dally during the morning, chatting to sis on Skype which throws any half-baked plans into complete disarray.

Echternach it is then. A few tourists dot the deserted Sunday streets. I amble towards the Benedictine Abbey, stopping off at a cafe frequented by Portuguese customers and with Lusophone staff. It’s my second of many a Portuguese encounter on the trip. (The first was an unwanted overture by a Guinean (Bissau) in the impressively cosmopolitan Luxembourg City). I’ve been so busy worrying about French, I’ve almost completely neglected my rudimentary Portuguese. The few sentences I’d practically memorised to perfection come out more falteringly.

The Abbey’s devotion to St Willibrord is a little too idolatrous for me. On exiting, I take a moment to admire the arborous hills that flank the village. It must be quite a sight in the summer or during the copper-golden autumns.

At some point, Bernard’s cryptic admonition comes back to haunt me. It makes sense in hindsight. I didn’t need a long weekend to explore Luxembourg. It takes less time by train from Strasbourg than Paris. I could have done it on a day off; an overnight stay at most. I would have saved the accommodation fees.

You live and learn.

Travel soundtracks:

• Justin Timberlake (Various)
• Little Dragon: Sway Daisy/Best Friends (Double A-Side)
• Chris Dave & the Drumhedz: Self-titled LP