The countdown to The Most Wonderful Time of the Year is on. I’ll be
a bit busier than usual this year. My new mate Coral has kindly accepted my invitation to spend some of the
festive period at mine. Why not? She hasn’t mentioned any plans to return to Tunisia for the festive break. It doesn’t make sense to spend Christmas alone in
our respective Franco-German corners. This is after all the season of peace and goodwill to all. I’m looking forward to
putting some of that Christian hospitality into action.
Continuing the family’s seasonal tradition of bucking the roast
turkey trend, this year I’ve opted for a simple French rabbit stew.
The idea comes from noticing a readier supply of rabbit meat here
compared to the UK. Choosing an relatively uncomplicated recipe, it’s just the excuse I need to experiment with a meat
with which I am scarcely familiar. Since Coral and I are both
tee-total, I swap the red wine ingredient for grape juice. A friend warns that
rabbit might be too adventurous
for Christmas. Having checked with Coral if she has any dietary
requirements, she doesn’t seem to be fussy. I set to work deciding
on a varied three-course menu, should something not take her fancy. I
even print one out with cursive script on coloured paper at work.
Well, you have to make an effort.
I plan my shopping schedule in such
a way to dodge the crowds. Thank God for an early pre-Christmas
finish at work. To create the perfect menu with fresh ingredients, I brave discourteous shop
assistants in Kehl, dreadfully inefficient customer service and dozy
sales assistants at a local deli and catch the tale end of the last
market day before Christmas. For dessert, I cheat and buy some lemon tarts. You need to walk before
you can run.
Contrary to what the above suggests,
I do have other preoccupations apart from honing my hostess skills.
The social calendar automatically fills up this time of year. I
attend a so-called Jazz Gospel charity gig at the Temple Neuf in
town. I spot a number of familiar faces in the audience; from church and other Christian contexts. The show doesn’t live up to the promise of the glossy
flyer. The repertoire is closer to pedestrian pop. The singer’s
articulation is pretty dire and she appears to invent lyrics-or
simply sounds-when she hasn't memorised the words. Now, knowing how
hard it is to master a foreign language, I try to be sympathetic with
those in a similar boat. Much of my French pronunciation leaves a lot
to be desired. However, since joining HRGS choir, I have become accustomed
to Francophones who have an impressive grip on English pronunciation.
My expectations have been raised.
That wouldn’t even be an issue if
the vocals were up to standard. Having been classically-trained, the
singer turns out to be a far better pianist than vocalist. It makes
me wonder why she just didn’t do a piano recital instead.
I am glad to have made the journey
in any case. The walk to and from the Temple is an opportunity to
see Strasbourg in its night-time Christmas glory. Unwittingly I find
myself walking the tragic trail of the recent terrorist attack;
passing
various memorials, beautifully arranged.
The following day, after church I
take the opportunity to pass by Javier’s old flat to drop off his Christmas cards. To my disappointment,
it looks as if he’s moved on.
Whilst I’m in the area, I visit the
Catholic church opposite the block of flats. I always had a soft spot
for the interior décor, particularly the elaborate nativity scene. This year
it’s even more ambitious, with a mechanically-controlled miniature
hot air balloon and a running brook. I linger for a good moment and
still don’t find Mary, Joseph and Baby Jesus. Never mind. The
stillness is inviting.
Later that week, I head out with my
Brazilian Portuguese class to a nearby (European Portuguese)
restaurant. I only plan to stay for a drink. With Christmas coming up
one needs to watch the calories and the pennies.
It’s not the most economical venue. I’m not too impressed with the head waiter’s cultural insensitivity either. Whilst going through the history and preparation of specific dishes, chapter and verse, he makes a vague reference to Africa and looks at me. I react defensively.
It’s not the most economical venue. I’m not too impressed with the head waiter’s cultural insensitivity either. Whilst going through the history and preparation of specific dishes, chapter and verse, he makes a vague reference to Africa and looks at me. I react defensively.
‘Which part of Africa are you talking about? It’s a
continent...I’m not from the Lusophone part anyway’.
After a year plus in Strasbourg I
have less patience for these displays of ignorance. He’s not too
flustered by my indignation, trying to salvage the point. One of my
fellow students looks at me
with what I can only describe as incredulous exasperation. Whether
it’s aimed at me or the waiter, I can’t tell. At
least I have the company of Barbara; a Kiwi who settled in France the
year I was born. After initially being my typically guarded self, I
thaw and I’m glad for her acquaintance. I leave the gathering having had some decent French practice and glorified pineapple
juice.
Coral is scheduled to reach
Strasbourg early afternoon on Christmas Eve. I spend the days leading
up tidying, cooking and continuing my custom of watching my favourite
Christmas specials (Boondocks, Charlie Brown, Community third
series, etc.).
I pick Coral up at the coach
station. She is a dream guest. She’s neat, considerate and an
excellent conversation partner. Amongst other topics we discuss UK,
French and North African politics, concepts of politeness across
cultures, unwelcome male attention, our
latest fiction-writing exploits
and her love-hate relationship with the cello, which she has played
since was six. She tells me the psychological torture of Whiplash
is not far from reality,
according to her experience at a conservatoire in Tunis. It’s not
the first time I’ve heard a classically-trained musician make such
an observation.
When we’re not talking late into
the night, we entertain ourselves with Netflix. It’s a chance for
me to satisfy my curiosity about The Lobster;
a humorous and surreal parody of society’s obsession with coupling
up and stigmatising the single. Coral and I mentally check-off all
the clichés in Sandra Bullock’s nevertheless engaging apocalyptic-horror vehicle The Bird Box.
The woman hasn’t aged a day. She
and John Malkovich give kick-ass performances which make up for some
of the hackneyed tropes, as do the adorable child actors.
Although from a Muslim background, Coral accompanies me to a Christmas Eve service at a local Lutheran
church. We
arrive a little late. The church is full and cosy. I do a loose
translation for her whilst she tries not to be distracted by the cute
but unruly tyke in front of us. It’s a short but very sweet
service. We sing carols in French, English and German. It's the closest
I’ve experienced to a typical British carol service thus far in
France. Yuletide hymns don’t seem to be a big part of the cultural
landscape, even in Christian contexts. I miss it a great deal.
Coral seems grateful and pleased
with my festive culinary efforts. On Christmas Day after attending
service in a freezing St Paul’s church in town. I rustle up a
substantial brunch to hold us to dinner. Coral doesn’t
over-indulge.
Two days fly by. Whether out of extreme courtesy or awkwardness, I can’t convince her to take a doggy bag. We part company ways for now back at the coach station on an Arctic-cold Boxing day.
In the days to come, I will drift around, feeling a little aimless now that I don't have company to fuss over.
Two days fly by. Whether out of extreme courtesy or awkwardness, I can’t convince her to take a doggy bag. We part company ways for now back at the coach station on an Arctic-cold Boxing day.
In the days to come, I will drift around, feeling a little aimless now that I don't have company to fuss over.