A Summer Break in Budapest: Part 3

 5 min. read

Part 1 & Part 2

Sunday 30.07:

Scenes from the Citadel, Budapest
(image: TrustIndex)

A lazy-ish day. In theory. I don’t find it easy – or especially enjoyable - to lounge around all day in bed. Not least in a basement flat with minimal natural light. I must get out into the elements. I dodge the heavy rain, stepping out just as the sun is re-emerging. I head to a nearby cliché hipster café (exposed brick, incomplete décor, etc.), for some pastry. I bump – literally – into that old Germanophone creep, I saw on the first night I arrived. He insists on following me, to the extent of stalking me inside a local supermarket. I shoo him away furiously, mouthing an expletive, to my shame. The cashier regards the scene, puzzled. I’m rattled for a good moment.

My sole plan that evening, apart from supper, is to visit the old Citadel. It’s not the easiest part of the city to reach. Once I’m in the vicinity, I only locate it by chance, nosily following other stragglers. Unbeknownst to me, the citadel is temporarily closed for restoration. That would explain the crossed out street signs en route. Brief and melodramatic summaries of the citadel’s history surround what is now a construction site. A sad-looking Hungarian flag blows listlessly in the grounds. Fortunately, there are breathtaking vistas in the environs as well as an inviting park. I realise how high I am when I come across the Lady Liberty statue up close; usually appearing so far in the distance. I take the scenic route through the park, back to public transport. I have no clear idea of where I’m going but convinced I’ll muddle through. I appreciate this part of a city break, normally around Day Two or Three, when I’m familiar enough with the layout to be self-sufficient. No longer reliant on the often unhelpful Google Maps journey planner. I’m feeling immensely grateful for the loveliness of the environment, the privilege of travel and the joy of discovery.

Following a leisurely pre-sunset walk through Budapest’s shopping district, I’m on the hunt for some traditional Hungarian food, with a decent enough reputation. Not that easy a task. I walk the length and breadth of the old Jewish district, crossing paths with one of the Italians I met at Friday’s social. At last, just as I’m about to give up, I spot a respectable-looking establishment with a TripAdvisor sticker. An elderly gent plays Jazz interpretations on the house piano all evening. I order a budget friendly starter, some Goulash (finally!) and another recommended traditional dish, Flódni layered cake. The so-so customer service notwithstanding (something of a recurring theme round these parts), it’s a pleasurable experience. Good food and good music. Can’t go wrong.

A grumpy-looking bust near the Citadel,
Budapest
(c) me

Monday 31.07:

The last full day of my first trip to Budapest. A wave of familiar melancholy washes over me. I acknowledge it, with the aim of being more present. Let tomorrow take care of itself.

I have an evening boat tour reservation. Before then, I make two important stops. I drop by the landmark indoor Central Market. It pops up as a must-see on most Budapest bucket lists. Plus, I’m on the lookout for souvenirs. Although overwhelming, I feel compelled to traverse as much of the market as I can withstand. Too many stalls, too many people, too compact a space. The so-called street food is pricier than an average restaurant. Tourist bait. I’m not biting.

I escape the Hall with some trinkets and make my way to Margaret Island, named after one of Budapest’s saints. It’s another scenic and semi-isolated spot, replete with thermal baths and a vast park including the ruins of old holy sites, an open-air theatre, a singing fountain and a Japanese garden, where I’ll while away most of my visit. 

Surrounded by the Danube, on a sunny day it’s worth the bus ride to the Island just for the wonderful views in transit. I return to my accommodation with plenty of time to spare before my evening cruise. So much so, that I lose track and find myself hurrying to the bus stop. I plan to reach the dock 20 minutes ahead of setting sail. I miss my initial connection and only arrive 10 minutes in advance. This wouldn’t be so bad if, in a sliding doors moment, I didn't resist my instinct and set off in the wrong direction. The docks' numbering system is not intuitive. I arrive at the correct dock just in time to see the boat moving off. I have to wait for the next cruise (thank goodness that’s an option), and pay six extra euros for the privilege. Still, one advantage is that this tour takes place closer to sunset. The weather is ideal. We receive a complementary drink. Being tee-total, I’m given a low quality mango squash that apparently doesn’t agree with me. I’ll partly attribute to it the gastric discomfort that afflicts me on and off for the rest of the evening.

A Park on Margaret Island, Budapest
(image: Expedia)

As usual, it appears I’m the lone solo traveller on board. Classic West Coast Jazz streams through the speakers. I note the main Budapest landmarks take on a crepuscular loveliness as dusk approaches. Apart from tactile couples and an overweight chick who insists on sitting in an ill-advised short dress with her legs agape, it's picture perfect. 

For my last evening in the Hungarian capital, I opt to dine somewhere I’ve spotted en route to the indoor market. I expect a lot, given all the visible accolades. I order another flavoursome Goulash starter and a traditional paprika chicken dish. I don’t know if it’s the quality of the cooking, Hungarian cuisine itself or my dodgy tummy but I’m fairly underwhelmed by the main. More broadly, I’ve not been amazed by the customary savoury dishes I’ve tasted, although I’m partial to the desserts.

The initial missed-cruise drama has put my schedule back. I hurry to Deác Fenanc to ride the giant Ferris Wheel before it shuts for the evening. To my surprise, it’s still teeming long after 10pm. Couples, groups of adolescents, families with small children...

Despite my mild vertigo, I covet a bird’s eye view of the city by night. It seems a fitting conclusion to my five-day échappée belle. I contemplate one last romantic ramble through the city centre but time and my contorting belly won’t allow. Instead, I’ll briefly join other starry-eyed loafers gathered round the pool-like water feature at Elizabeth square.

Soundtrack: After Dinner We Talk Dreams + Side Dishes by MICHELLE

LVC is now on a break for the rest of summer 2023.